GAUTAM BUDDHA: THE BHAIRON TELIYA BABA OF BADGAON (NALANDA)

THE BHAIRON TELIYA BABA (GAUTAMA BUDDHA) OF BADGAON, NALANDA Published in 'The Speaking Tree'  Nalanda district in Bihar is renowned for it rich historical, cultural and religious legacy. Rajgir in Nalanda was the capital of the mighty Mauryans. The rule of the Mauryans saw the evolution of a number of religious thoughts and movements such as the Buddhism, Jainism and the Ajivikas. Buddhism flourished especially during this period since the Mauryans were ardent followers of Buddhism. Gautama Buddha had a special liking for this place and Mauryan King Bimbisar had gifted the famous Venuvan (Bamboo woods) to Gautama Buddha as a mark of obeisance to the great teacher. Even today the relics and ruins of Mauryan dynasty and the legacy of Gautama Buddha are found scattered here there and everywhere in this region. The Hindu religion regards Buddha as an incarnation of Lord Vishnu and it is interesting to note that of the 360 places where pinds are offered in Gaya, one is located inside the temple premises of Bodhi Temple in Bodh Gaya. Moving ahead, there is a temple in Badgaon village in the Nalanda district where both Hindus and Buddhists worship the same relic of Lord Buddha- Hindus consider this the temple of Hindu God Bhairon Teliya Baba while Buddhist worship Him as Gautama, the Buddha.  Badgaon is a place where there are temples where Lord Buddha is also worshipped as Sun God as well as Lord Vishnu. However, the present essay brings out the story of a unique temple where the same relic of Gautama Buddha is worshipped both by the Hindus and the Buddhists treating it as their own God- a perfect example of religious tolerance and peaceful co-existence.  Nalanda district is located adjacent to Gaya and the village of Badgaon is located near the ruins of the famous Nalanda University. Just a kilometer from the ruins of Nalanda University, my attention was drawn by a board indicating the way towards Black Buddha Temple. I proceeded in the direction and came to a temple where a priest was busy conducting some religious ceremony as per Hindu rites. His host was a newlywed couple from adjoining village of Badgaon. Some villagers accompanied this couple. My curiosity increased since the Hindu priest was performing Hindu ritual in the temple which had the image of Gautama Buddha, carved in black stone. The image of Gautama Buddha at this temple is in the famous Bhoomi-sparsha posture known as the Enlighten Buddha. The Bhoomi-sparsha posture relates with the event of attainment of enlightenment by Buddha. In this posture Gautama Buddha is seen seated on lotus in a double lotus pose (where one leg rests on top of the other leg and the head of the bottom leg is then pulled up so that it is locked into the top leg). The right hand faces downward with fingers extended towards the ground, palm facing inward. The left hand rests in lap with palm open and in upward direction. This posture signifies insight, purity of character and self mastery. While I was still engrossed in the ceremony, a tourist bus carrying tourists from Thailand stopped outside the temple premises. Foreign tourists mostly Buddhist monks and commoner got down from the bus in large numbers and made their way towards the temple. By this time the Hindu priest had completed the puja and after blessing the newly wedded couple and villagers, stepped out of the temple and handed over the temple precincts to the Thai tourist, while he made himself comfortable in a bench in the temple premises. I approached the Hindu priest to seek an answer to my query. The priest informed me that the idol of Black Buddha was excavated by people of Badgaon village even before the excavations at the historical site of Nalanda University had begun. The villagers established a small temple and placed this idol in this temple. Since the idol was in black stone it came to be known as Bhairon. People worship this image of Gautama Buddha as Bhairon and smear it with mustard oil in the firm belief that this helps the newlywed to get healthy beautiful child. Thus Gautama Buddha came to be known as the Bhairon Teliya Baba. Later on, when the Archeological Survey of India started the excavation at the site of ancient Nalanda University, the Government of the day decided to preserve this black Buddha in the Nalanda Museum along with other ancient relics recovered from Nalanda University ruins. This decision was vehemently opposed by the villagers. Finally the Government had to relent to the wishes of the villagers and it allowed the idol to remain in this temple but provided it adequate security cover. This idol belongs to Pala age. Hence it is of immense archaeological value. My attention was now drawn towards the Thai Buddhist monks who were engaged in worship of their God. They were reciting some hymns. The worship started with lighting of a candle and placing the same before the image of Buddha. Then flowers were placed in water and offered to the image. Each follower then held three incense sticks in their palms and after flashing it before the image tucked it in a container of sand. Finally the small square of gold leaf was pressed onto the Buddha image. At the end triple obeisance was performed with each individual bowing to the Buddha thrice whilst kneeling and placing palms down on the floor at the end of each bow. During this triple obeisance, the Thai pilgrims were also reciting some set phrases from the Buddhist scriptures. The worship kept me mesmerized. After the worship was over the Thai pilgrims and monks came out of the temple. I approached one of the pilgrims with my query. He informed that this particular image of Black Buddha is very popular in Thailand. It is a mandatory place of visit in the itinerary of any Thai tourist or pilgrim visiting India. He further informed that they were performing “Wai-Phra” that is the traditional Thai rites of worship of Lord Gautama Buddha in Thailand. The hymns recited by the Buddhist monks initially were in Pali language while the hymns chanted by them during the triple obeisance were in Thai language. Offering candle symbolized that Buddha will remove all darkness from their life. Lotuses were very dear to Buddha and hence these are offered to the image. The three incense sticks represents the Buddha, his teachings and the monastic order. By offering small square gold leaf, pilgrims seek good health for the family and even good luck in their life. I was amazed to witness the two forms of Gautama Buddha. Buddha had ordained upon his followers to be their own light and had always asked them to follow the noble path. “Appo Deepo Bhava”- was what the Buddha had preached. But here at this temple in the remote village of Badgaon, Buddha had taken upon himself to be the leading light for pilgrims belonging to two distinct and distant culture and civilization. It felt as if the Badgaon Buddha was out to bless his followers irrespective of their faith and help them in their endeavour- the lesser mortals for whom it is simply impossible to rise to the level of wisdom of a Buddha. With a sense of deep gratification towards Gautama Buddha, I took leave from the Hindu priest and the Thai monk to proceed on my onward journey.